News

  • Say Buh-Bye to Bacne

    Spring has sprung, which means your clients might be ready to pack up their winter woolies and reveal more skin! But for some the very notion might make them anxious if they suffer from back or chest acne. “Bacne” as it’s now referred to, is more common than you think when you consider that nearly 85% of all people have acne at some point in their lives, most often on the face, chest, and back. Teen boys and men sometimes get the full brunt of this issue due to testosterone levels triggering increased sebum production, which leads to blockages and more breakouts. Only to be then further exacerbated by sweaty, occlusive gym clothes and let be real, questionable hygiene. But you can’t ignore the ladies, many acne prone and active females have their fair share of bacne issues too.

    Here are #3 simple rules to share with your clients.

    #1 No blocking. We have the most amount of sebaceous glands in the face, neck, shoulders, back and upper arms, so if these follicles are blocked due to oil, dead cells, waxy hair or occlusive body products, even SPF, breakouts sometimes even cystic type acne will result. Bear in mind that people are also less selective about what products they use on their body versus their face.

    Buh-bye Bacne Tip: Advise clients to treat their chest and back like their face, screen their shower and body products for comedogenic culprits like artificial fragrance, color, pure lanolins, petroleum derivatives and the “myristates”.  Have them ditch the dewberry shower gel and prescribe a soap- and fragrance-free anti-bacterial cleanser with ingredients like Salicylic Acid, Tea Tree and Citrus extracts.

    #2 No stripping. Steer your clients away from mentholated and alcohol astringents, the cooling sensation on the skin does not mean the skin is clean. In most cases, these astringents have an SD Alcohol base that strips the skin of lipids and causes the skin to actually produce MORE oil to only worsen the condition. Abrasive scrubs are also a no-no as they’ll open up lesions and spread bacteria.

    Buh-bye Bacne Tip: Introduce an oil and bacteria controlling toner. Look for alcohol-free that allow for spritzing on the back or portable purifying skin wipes with ingredients like Balm Mint, Witch Hazel and Salicylic Acid. Treat breakouts with topical treatments that reduce sebum production, dissolve skin cells and zap bacteria with the hottest technology like Lactobacillus Ferment, Colloidal Silver, Zinc Sulfate, Magnolia Bark and Niacinamide.

    #3 Keep it clean. Conduct a CSI level investigation into your client’s sheet preference, washday frequency, detergent products and clothing. Sweat, dead cells and oil are all yummy bacteria food. Synthetic fibers will further trap sweat and dead cells.

    Buh-bye Bacne Tip: Advise clients to change pillowcases at least every other day and sheets twice a week. They should also wear organic cotton clothing next to the skin and especially avoid moisture wicking gym gear. Same goes for the bed linen, avoid synthetics like polyester that trap sweat and bacteria. Also ditch the fabric conditioners as these coat the fibers and this in turn coats the skin.

    Last but not least book them for a weekly 30 minute back clearing or chest treatment and you’ll eradicate their bacne or chacne (chest acne) in a snap, and ready for that cute Easter dress or at least the first pool party!

  • Jump Into Spring Clean Skin

    March came in like a lion and is going out like a lamb. Slowly sweaters are moving toward the back of our closets, which means more skin will be getting exposed. Aside from shedding away cold weather gear, now is the time to get your clients ready for Spring by deep cleansing their skin.

    Let’s take a look at the top 3 electrical devices that can be used to deep cleanse the skin.

    Electrical Brushes: Various rotating brushes can be used with cleansers or exfoliants to provide that “power cleanse” during a treatment. If clients have a similar device at home, suggest products they can use with the device. Combining a creamy cleanser and an exfoliating scrub once a week could be that extra boost your clients are looking for.

    Ultrasonic: Using vibrational sound waves can get stubborn particles and build up to move, revealing cleaner healthier skin. Really want to customize their treatment? Alternatively penetrate specific ingredients like peptides for aging, brightening ingredients for pigmentation or soothing extracts for irritated skin to make the treatment target specific.

    Direct High Frequency: After extractions use Direct High Frequency to intensify drying and healing of inflamed acne lesions. The germicidal effect not only eliminates excess oil but also provides that deep cleanse within the follicles. Pesky breakouts that will not go away? Combine Direct High Frequency with a leave-on spot treatment containing Benzoyl Peroxide, Salicylic Acid or Colloidal Silver, alongside Vitamin C and watch that spot disappear without a trace!

    Of course as the seasons change, your clients’ skin care needs will change. Make sure that you thoroughly analyze the skin and recommend any changes they should incorporate into their routine. Of course with the weather warming up its evermore important that clients are remembering to apply their sunscreen. It might not be summer yet but warmer temperatures mean more time outside.

  • Look Good, Feel Better

    The International Dermal Institute (IDI) & Dermalogica UK have formed an exciting partnership with Look Good Feel Better (LGFB), a cancer support charity, who provide practical support for women struggling with the side effects of cancer treatment. LGFB held their first UK workshop in 1994 and has to date provided support to more than 114,500 patients. The workshops and master classes take place across the UK where volunteers share their tips and techniques in skin care and makeup application. Their aim is to improve the self-image and appearance of patients through free group and self-help workshops that provide practical support while helping to create confidence and a sense of well-being. LGFB is the only charity that focuses on the problems associated with the visible side effects of cancer treatment and addresses how hard loss of hair, eyebrows, eyelashes and other skin related issues can be to cope with.

    Due to the high demand of the services LGFB provides within hospitals, they have devised master classes that take place outside of the hospital environment and are designed to reach those in more isolated parts of the country. IDI is pleased to be able to provide suitable learning spaces, equipment and enthusiastic staff on hand to assist.

    On 18th February, we hosted our first LGFB master class at our head office in Surrey! Working with staff members from the charity and a trained volunteer, we helped provide the eight women in attendance a skincare and make-up application lesson, which educated them on effective product choices and utilization. Our very own Lesley Corridan, Education Training Manager, first guided the group through tips on cleansing and toning for sensitive skin, followed by some great advice on hydration and the all-important SPF. With lots of great questions and plenty of fun, the group then threw open their makeup bags with reckless abandon and revealed their favorite must have items. The volunteers lent a hand as the women were guided through a simple makeup routine, applying brows where there may not be any and even how to apply fake lashes.

    With almost everyone having been touched by cancer in one form or another, we are thrilled to be able to partner with LGFB and put our skin care skills to another incredibly beneficial use and look forward to an exciting future together.

    “Look Good Feel Better (LGFB) is delighted to be working with Dermalogica and to launch our new relationship we held one of our confidence-boosting Master classes at the stunning Leatherhead offices. As the LGFB and Dermalogica volunteer team found out, our sessions are informative, involving and great fun and everyone leaves looking and feeling uplifted, with renewed confidence and a definite spring in their step. We have firm plans for a long and successful partnership with Dermalogica and thank everyone involved for their commitment and support” - Sarahjane Robertson, Executive Director

  • Can’t Touch This: More Proof on the Healing Power of Touch

    As touch givers we are attuned to the countless benefits of touch, for some of us it may have even served as the very catalyst to us choosing this profession. We can also appreciate the deep impact that touch can have, like releasing a physical knot that was also mental or vice versa, resulting in emotional release for a client as they let go of the grief, sadness, anger or pain that they may of harbored for so long.

    In recent years, the science at last has started to catch up and a wave of evidence based studies has started to surface about the physical and physiological effects of touch and massage. Thanks to organizations like the Touch Research Institute at the University of Miami, we know that touch boosts growth in preterm newborns, calms the “stress beast” cortisol while increasing other feel good, pain relieving, love potion hormones like endorphins and oxytocin. It helps regulate key neurotransmitters like serotonin and dopamine helping us to not only sleep better, crave less but also feel more enthusiastic and joyful. From helping with post traumatic stress disorder (PTSD), anorexia, cancer symptoms and dementia, the touch benefit list just keeps getting longer.

    Some new areas that have recently come to light delve deeper into the specifics of how we touch…

    Vagus Baby!

    The skin, as we know, is a sensory organ and is laden with nerve receptors. These receptors receive messages about pressure, temperature, pain and are incredibly sensitive. When a receptor is stimulated, it sends a signal along the nerve cells directly to the brain. The brain then co-ordinates the response, like the contraction of a muscle or a gland releasing a hormone into the bloodstream.  Interestingly, the deeper “pressure” receptors in the skin called the Pacinian corpuscles’ send a signal directly to an important nerve bundle deep in the brain called the Vagus nerve. The Vagus links directly to the heart and it’s this nerve that then slows the heart down and decreases blood pressure.

    Touch tip: Use deeper pressure, slow massage strokes to quickly and deeply bring about stress relief, key for hypertensive, high blood pressure and generally stressed out clients.

    Different Strokes for Different Folks

    As pro’s we know that the method of massage we use can energize someone feeling sluggish or calm down an angry, anxious client. But why is that? Researchers found that a seated massage lasting 15 minutes increases the production of epinephrine by stimulating the sympathetic nervous system. This helps people become more alert, more attentive, and therefore more productive.  A slower, longer, deeper and more rhythmic technique has quite the opposite effect, engaging the parasympathetic nervous system, reducing epinephrine levels, allowing a sense of deep relaxation, and facilitating deep sleep.

    Touch tip: Offer Energizing 15-minute chair massage, hand and arm or foot reflexology sessions in the mornings or at lunchtimes to capture new clients. Great for jet lagged travelers, tired moms, young partiers and office workers alike! Take these services offsite to companies who offer well-being programs for their employees.

    Monkey Business

    A new discovery about the function of certain sensory nerve cells, known as C tactile (CT) afferents, that are only found in the hairy skin of humans and mammals, has recently emerged. These nerve cells fire more slowly and only become stimulated with gentle rhythmic stroking movements like caressing. When they are activated by this type of touch, they flood the body with feelings of pleasure and also evoke our sense of self and embodiment. Their behavior suggests that the desire of having one’s skin stroked represents an innate, natural act that’s linked to the importance of social interaction; much like our hairy primate friends that enjoy the act of social grooming and nit nibbling.

    Neuroscientists are hopeful that knowing more about these cells might help us to understand pain perception, body image distortions and certain neurodevelopmental disorders.  As a Skin Therapist, I’m happy to know that at last we have some real proof about what we have believed to be true for so long. So the next time your client tells you your hands are amazing, magical or even miracle workers, tell them that’s right because indeed they are!

    References:

    http://www.academia.edu/3570732/Massage_increases_oxytocin_and_reduces_ACTH_in_humans

    http://www6.miami.edu/touch-research/Massage.html

    http://www.jneurosci.org/content/34/8/2879.full

  • Get Soy Smart!

    In recent years, Soy has been marketed for it’s nutritional benefits, but did you know that topical application of Soy can also contribute to healthy skin? Here’s 5 questions and answers to get you Soy-smart.

    1. What are some of the benefits of using Soy in skincare products?

    Soy and its derivatives have shown to reduce free radical damage (ROS) and reduce inflammation. It also hydrates the skin by stimulating the production of Hyaluronic Acid and stimulates production of collagen and increases skin thickness, which may be beneficial for postmenopausal women who develop a thinner dermis and decreased collagen. Soy isoflavonoids act as anti-glycation agents (AGEs) to fight collagen cross-linking and inhibits collagen degrading enzymes (matrix-metalloproteinase enzymes also referred to as MMPs). Soy ingredients can also produce a brightening effect for hyperpigmentation.

    2. Are there different types of Soy that are used in skincare products? 

    Yes, Soy has different derivatives that are used in various skincare products.  Soybeans are a rich source of flavonoids called isoflavones, which are phytoestrogens or plant compounds that have a weak estrogenic effect. The most commonly used Soy isoflavonoids is Glycine Soja (Soybean) Protein, Oil or Seed Extract, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Lecithin that are rich in amino acids that help to smooth, aid in wound healing, and stimulate elastin and collagen synthesis.

    3. What type of skin treatment is Soy a good ingredient for?

    Soy is primarily used in aging skin treatments that are geared towards stimulating elastin and collagen synthesis, reducing fine lines, wrinkles and UV induced photo-damage. Soy isoflavones have also been used in treatment for hyperpigmentation disorders as they prevent melanin from adhering to skin cells, therefore helping with blotchiness and discoloration.

    However, Soy, which is a phytoestrogen, is NOT recommended for melasma treatment since melasma is somewhat estrogen mediated.

    4. Is there any danger in applying Soy-based products topically on the skin? For example on a client with Soy allergies, hormonal imbalances, etc.

    Most concerns or negative effects associated with soy are consumption based, however, Soy may act as a food allergen (similar to milk, eggs or peanuts). If the client has a Soy allergy, then it’s recommended to avoid products that contain Soy. There has been some consumer concerns between Soy and breast cancer. Studies are still on-going to determine whether these isoflavones spur tumor growth. Ensure client’s check with their physician before proceeding to use or prescribe any Soy-based products.

    5. What other key ingredients work with Soy?

    Soy itself has been suggested to have a variety of effects when used in in skin care products. For maximum results, look for products that have an additional complex of age-fighting ingredients that work synergistically with Soy, such as peptides, White Tea and Licorice.

  • Are You Prepared to Use Advanced Modalities?

    Today skin therapists have greater access to various forms of advanced modalities than ever before. We are now working in an industry that includes modern day modalities like LED, Intense Pulsed Light (IPL), dermaplaning and skin needling to enhance our treatments. But, before you start boosting your services with these options, follow three simple steps to make sure the device is fit not only for you, but for your business and your clients.

    1. Get the Facts: It is imperative before purchasing or using a device that you do your research and make sure it is within your scope of practice. Different states and different countries all have varying regulations. Check with local agencies such as the Board of Cosmetology or Skin Therapy, the Medical Board and Insurance Liability companies to verify what is available for use in your area. Some modalities can only be performed in a medical environment or under the guidance of a physician and could fall outside of your current license guidelines.

    2. Get Certified: Along with your local agency regulations, the modality selected will also dictate whether you need additional or licensing. Always ensure that you are properly trained and have the necessary qualifications before offering advanced types of treatment to clients. Check to see if the manufacturer offers additional training and certification or has specific requirements. Ensure you are following their protocols and heed to any warnings or contraindications.

    3. Get Insured: Having the necessary documentation, consent forms and insurance before offering advanced procedures to your clients can help prevent potential damage to you, your business and your reputation. Verify that your insurance not only covers you personally, but the modality used is also included in the coverage. Investing in insurance that provides general, product and professional liability is a smart step to protect your career.

    Offering today’s cutting edge technology can come with great results and great risk. Do your homework and research all aspects of training, certification and licensing.  Even if you choose not to incorporate a device, stay current and educated especially on pre and post care treatments. Your advanced knowledge of the skin coupled with proper hands-on techniques will still be your foundation to maintaining overall skin health.

    For information on the latest modalities and devices, watch these webisodes:        Using Machines to Power up Your Treatments Part 1 and Part 2

  • Destination Success – Planning Out Your Business Road Map

    Benjamin Franklin once said that “by failing to prepare, you are preparing to fail.”  Starting any new calendar year requires business due diligence. It’s the time for any business to set out its road map for the year. What will the final destination be? How are you going to get there? What will you change this year over last to make things better? Remembering, if you do exactly the same as you did last year, you’ll end up with exactly the same result! In fact you’ll end up with less, because everything costs more due to inflation.

    Starting the New Year first requires a review of 2014. Did your business experience growth? If so how much, and what was this growth a result of? Secondly, if you didn’t grow or your business was in decline, why? Where did you go wrong? Once you have identified your business position you are now able to make informed choices and plan strategies to ensure (as best as possible) that by the end of 2015 you’re looking at a healthy balance sheet, one where your business has experienced a healthy growth and profit margin.

    After you have determined your overall growth prediction and where you plan for that growth to come from (treatment sales, retail sales, saving on budget expenditure, new clients etc.) you can then divide that into quarters, bite sized time frames that allow you to achieve your goals.

    Your first quarter planning should include:

    1. Ensure you have a strategy meeting with your business development consultant(s)/sales representatives from your product suppliers. Find out their plans and company direction. What promotions do they have in place for the first quarter? What business advice can they lend to help support you in your 2015 business plan?

    2. Meet with your accountant to ‘set the books straight’!

    3. Set your quarterly budget.

    4. Set your retail and treatment revenue targets.

    5. Identify your cash flow needs.

    6. Set your marketing plan to include advertising, seasonal promotions, new product launches, your social media (blog, Facebook, etc.) content, newsletters, etc.

    7. Order both retail and professional products ensuring your can deliver the perfect customer service experience.

    8. Plan and budget your staffs training needs.

    9. Ensure all equipment and salon repairs have been amended.

    10. Get your staff on-board.

    Once you have made your plan it is then time to get your whole team on board, because without them you simply won’t achieve much. Organize a staff meeting to share your overall goals for the year, give them your business vision for 2015. This may include purchasing new equipment, being trained in new skills, renovating your reception area, revamping your treatment rooms, buying new laundry or hiring new staff. Share with them how important their input and support is to the overall success of the business. Also in this meeting review the targets and goals of the first quarter and how you and they believe you’ll achieve them, share their training and development plan for the first quarter and any promotional events you have planned.

    Lastly plan your diary. You have a lot to do and if you allow time to run away with you then it’s likely you’ll never achieve your goals. Set your business time, your entrepreneurial time, your staff training time, your marketing time, etc. into your daily planner. Then make a promise to yourself to try very hard never to cancel this valuable time from your diary!

    Remember “a goal without a plan is just a wish.”  - Antoine de Saint-Exupéry

    Here’s to good fortune for 2015 for all of us!

  • A Tale of Two Cities: From Dubai to Moscow

    I had quite the journey flying over 8,000 miles from Los Angeles to United Arab Emirates (UAE) to Russia for the opportunity to represent IDI. When I first saw my itinerary I saw two very different worlds, apart from my own, but then I remembered the common interest I share with my hosts – the passion for skin therapy.

    My first stop was in Dubai, UAE, a city known for its luxury and amazing modern architecture. I had to find out why it’s been dubbed as the “City of Gold” and I discovered why walking around the gold souk or outdoor marketplace – I had never seen so much gold in such a small area! I even had the opportunity to go on a desert safari and ride a camel for the first time during my visit.

    But the true purpose for my visit was to present to 140 skin therapists and business owners who want to take their clients’ skin to a new level of skin health. I lectured on the latest cosmetic treatments that could be incorporated with their current product line, Dermalogica, and introduced a new chemical peel system to their market. It was great to see their eagerness build as they planned for new treatments to expand their menu and offer to clients. It was also a treat to meet students from Saudi Arabia, Lebanon and other parts of UAE to join in the day’s festivities.

    Then I hopped on a plane to my next destination – Russia. I landed in Moscow, bundled up and ready for the chilly, snowy weather; compared to the desert, camels and sunny beaches I just left behind!

    The two day event in Moscow began with discussing the wide-ranging topic of pigmentation, followed by a chemical peel demonstration to address signs of hyperpigmentation commonly seen on clients. Ranging between skin therapists, business owners and physicians, our guests mingled with each other as if they never wanted the evening to end.  As the event drew to a close there was a particular buzz of excitement, that feeling of connection as a tribe.

    We had a smaller more, intimate group of 11 educators from Russia, Kazakhstan and Azerbaijan on the second day in Moscow. Through a translator, I was able to educate them on the particulars of chemical peels and guided them all through a hands on practical. Their glowing skin and radiant smiles were enough to tell me they were enjoying the day.

    Thankfully I had a free day for some sightseeing. Braving the cold, I set out on foot to see famous buildings I had only seen in pictures until now. I enjoyed sights such as the eclectic art market of Arabat Street and the Alexander Garden right outside the Kremlin. Walking to the end of the Red Square, I was able to enjoy the colorful architecture of St Basil’s Cathedral. As my tour came to an end, I had an unforgettable evening watching the Russian Ballet perform.

    Although my travels took me to two extremes, my purpose was the same: to give our students the tools to grow their business and reach others through the healing power of touch.

     

     

     

     

  • Crazy for Cranberries

    With the holiday season upon us I seem to have cranberries on the brain, so it should come as no surprise that one of my all-time favorite ingredients happens to be Cranberry Seed Oil. Why am I so enamored with the oil from this super fruit? When the fruit is cold pressed the resulting oil is rich in tocopherols, tocotrienols (Vitamin E) and phytosterols (plant sterols). Vitamin E is really a family of eight different isomers consisting of 4 tocopherols and 4 tocotrienols. The Vitamin E constituents found in Cranberry Seed Oils contain significant levels of alpha and gamma tocopherols and alpha and gamma tocotrienols. All of these isomers of Vitamin E provide excellent antioxidant protection and help to reinforce the barrier lipid properties of the skin.

    In addition, Cranberry Seed Oil contains high levels of polyunsaturated fatty acids; including those that are essential to your health, such as the Omega-3 fatty acid also called alpha-linolenic acid. The 1:1 ratio of Omega-3 to Omega-6 essential fatty acids gives Cranberry Seed Oil its excellent antioxidant activity and skin nurturing benefits, but also explains why this oil absorbs very nicely into the skin and helps it hold onto moisture by contributing to the skin’s structure and barrier formation. This moisturizing power of Cranberry Seed Oil makes it perfect for aging, rough, dry, and scaly skin.

    We all know that free radical damage and inflammation are two potent drivers of skin aging, so being able to address these two issues with a topical antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent goes a long way in preventing premature aging of the skin and repairing some of the existing damage. The high antioxidant potential of Cranberry Seed Oil makes it an excellent addition to any nighttime treatment product where it can help scavenge free radicals while promoting skin repair – as well as in daytime sun protection products to provide antioxidant benefits along with sunscreens for photoprotection of the skin.

    It’s no wonder cranberries are considered a super fruit! Not only do they provide topical benefits for the skin but they taste delicious, and provide similar benefits when consumed in our diet.

  • The Malaysian Monologues

    When people think of Southeast Asia, exotic places like Phuket and Bali come to mind but one of the most exciting and fastest growing cities is Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, also fondly known as KL. I recently had the honor and pleasure of spending some time in this captivating city with our Education Manager for Australia and Asia, Emma Hobson. What a rare occurrence and delight being with a fellow educator, sharing in the unique experience and getting to teach the program together!

    I lived and worked in this part of the world many moons ago so it was also very touching to be able to return and see the progress that has occurred since my last visit 16 years ago! Beyond the stunning mixture of historic meets hyper modern architecture, Chinese, Malay, Indian blend of culture and exotic food, the people (who call themselves KLites, so cute right?)  are what truly make KL so memorable. Graceful, warm, charming are all characteristics of KLites but their hunger for education is what makes teaching in this region so rewarding.

    So what did we share? Over a tightly packed 2 day congress we shared new information on skin exfoliation, ingredient technology and new techniques for performing effective yet safe, chemical peels. Together with the incredible Malaysian educators, we even managed to conduct a hands on practical session for over 190 Malaysian Skin Therapists! The pinnacle of any educators career…that one might need to go into the Guinness World Book of Records! On our second day we shared information with the group on Global Skin Trends, the impact of exercise on the skin and motivational segments on Communication, Leadership and Achieving Lifelong Goals.

    As with all of our international trips the local media are always eager to learn about what’s new in skin from America, I met with the 5 leading news and lifestyle publications to chat about skincare trends, new ingredients and advances in Chemical Peels. The skin savvy Malaysian consumer has always been light years ahead in regards to protecting their skin from daylight exposure, but is always on the lookout for new treatments and products to address hyperpigmentation; so the journalists were thrilled to be able to offer some fresh advice and new treatment recommendations to their readers.

    The warm welcome and sincere hospitality we received by the Malaysian team and our charming hosts Eddie and Roderick Chieng made this trip truly unforgettable. The dedication to learning we felt and stories of success we had the honor hearing was beyond inspiring. Hashtag #ilovemyjob!