News

  • Teen Challenge: Acneic Skin and Hydration

    Heather HickmanThe American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) reports that acne is by far the most common skin complaint amongst those in the 12 to 17 age bracket, affecting all at least occasionally.

    Being prepared to treat teenage clients with acne is high on our radar as Professional Skin Therapists. We are well versed in the key ingredients to combat the contributing factors of an acneic skin condition, and how to effectively explain to our teenage clients, and their parent, how the skin should be treated at home.

    Yet, often the hardest conversation revolves around the use, or lack thereof, of a moisturizer. All too often, our acne and oily prone clients have an innate mistrust of using non-medicated “creams” for fear it will lead to future or prolonged breakouts.

    Dehydrated skin is highly prevalent amongst those with oily or acne prone skin, especially if they have been using harsh over the counter products that may strip the skin of moisture and impair the barrier function. In addition, prescriptive medications such as isotretinoin further exacerbate the dehydration issue, sometime to the extreme.

    Education is a key factor in ensuring a moisturizer is utilized on a daily basis, specifically the ability to explain the difference between a dry and a dehydrated skin, and the need to add moisture, but not oil. And being able to clearly explain that if an oily skin is dehydrated the skin will produce MORE oil to make up for the missing moisture, potentially leading to more breakouts – that revelation works every time!

    Oil-free is the key, but let us not forget the need for the moisturizer to also soothe the skin and calm any irritation either from misuse of product, side effect of medication or inflammation from severe acne.

    Hyaluronic Acid is one of the best ingredients on the market to quickly, effectively and non-aggressively hydrate the skin. The use of Squalene in a moisturizer restores skin suppleness while also helping to prevent future moisture loss. Mild Vitamin B5 derivatives, such as Panthenyl Triacetate will assist in soothing and restoring irritated skin.

    Let’s not forget to join the “moisture movement” the next time we are treating our teenage clients oily or acne skin concerns – they’ll thank you in the long run.

  • Show Some Love for Your Professional Skin Therapist

    Today we show our appreciation to every single professional skin therapist for your dedication to skin health and for your gift of healing through touch.

    Thank you for allowing The International Dermal Institute to help you grow your passion for skin care into a successful career, for without you we would not be here today. We would also like to give a special thanks to our industry partners in hair, makeup and nails for strengthening and solidifying our place in the business community.

    Happy National Beautician’s Day!

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  • It’s Ok for Dad to Grow His Mo!

    Even Dads need to be picture perfect for Father’s Day. The question is: Are they “selfie” ready or not? No doubt, Father’s Day is a day where many kids will be posting selfie shots with their fathers, and fathers with their kids; after all, social media rules our world! And fathers of all ages will want to put their best faces forward (like mothers on Mother’s Day) for the digital world to see.

    Dad’s grooming habits have shifted from the back burner and are now commanding a greater deal of focus. Statistics estimate that the size of the global male grooming market will be worth about $21.4 billion in 2016! This, no doubt, includes skin care, hair care and of course, the now trending Beard care. So the next question is: to “grow the Mo” or no?

    For many men, growing a beard is a rite of passage. It should be understood that there is more to growing a beard than putting down the razor. But one, need not shriek back at the thought of Dad growing his beard. With a simple but proper grooming routine, common concerns can be avoided. Here are some basic tips that can help make everyone else, along with Dad, love his Mo.

    1. Itchy skin. An itchy face is often attributed to the growth of the facial hair. Normally, this subsides after about two weeks. If itchiness persists longer than two weeks, it is likely that the skin is tight and dehydrated. Using stripping soaps will dry out the skin and deplete natural oils, leaving it itchy and tight.

    Tip: Use a non-stripping cleansing bar that contains Allantoin to help soothe, Oatmeal to stop itch and Tea Tree to purify both the hair and skin. Wash with cool water – this helps to not only close and constrict the follicles of the hair, but also to calm the skin.

    2. Knots and tangles in the beard. It’s not just the hair on the head that needs attention. When growing a beard, tangles and knots can become quite common. With regular grooming, this can be easily controlled.

    Tip: While the hair is still wet, use a good wide-toothed comb to comb through the hair for less tangles. This also helps to remove any excessive hairs that may be damaged and are at the end of their lifecycle. Do this daily, or as often as you cleanse the beard.

    3. Dry brittle beard. Whatever you rub on the beard, gets onto the skin. As stated earlier, soaps strip the skin, but they also dry out the hair, causing them to become coarse and wiry.

    Tip: Use non-comedogenic products on the hair to condition and soften the hair. For sparser beards, use a lightweight moisturizer that contains Wheat Germ, Vitamin E and Grape Seed.  This will condition and protect the skin. Use a moisturizer with a minimum of SPF15 for protection from UV rays.

    For fuller beards, use a small amount of beard oil. This can also double up as a great shave oil (when ready to shave). Search for products with Soybean and Silicones (Dimethicone) to soften and condition the hair and use it with a brush to help distribute throughout the beard.

    Whether it’s at the beginning growth stages or a full grown beard, these simple grooming practices can help Dads capture the perfect moment this Father’s Day!

  • SPF and Aging

    A good SPF product is a skin care essential, but clients often struggle with finding the right formula. Here is how to help clients choose the perfect SPF products for their skin at every age.

    20’s: Since oil production is still high, skin may be breakout prone. Clients need a daily SPF formula that does not clog follicles or contribute to comedones; and fragrance, color, Isopropyl Myristate, Lanolin and Mineral Oil should all be avoided. Suggest a lightweight SPF that helps combat and treat breakout prone skin and soak up excess oil, and add an eye treatment with SPF to your clients’ regimens to prevent future ultraviolet (UV) damage like crow’s feet.

    30’s: Recommend a tinted moisturizer! Multi benefit, 3-in-1 products with a wash of color, hydration and built-in broad spectrum SPF are ideal. Another option is to customize your clients’ moisturizers by mixing in a SPF booster. Look for the latest Oleosome technology that also acts as an emulsifier and allows for a higher concentration of sunscreen ingredients without the irritation.

    40’s: Signs of aging and hyperpigmentation are more evident in your 40s, so SPF30 or higher will best address firmness, elasticity and age-related triggers like reactive oxygen species (ROS). Clients can layer an age-fighting skin primer with peptides, Pearl Powder and SPF30 to help combat harmful rays while smoothing lines.

    50’s and up: Skin is significantly drier and more sensitive in your 50s, so a chemical SPF might not be an option. Suggest an ultra-sensitive SPF30 that has physical sunscreen ingredients like Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide, as well as built-in calming complexes to soothe skin. If your clients’ skin is very dry, recommend an appropriate moisturizer under which they can layer SPF.

    This article was originally published on ModernSalon.com

  • Beauty Sleep – Myth or Truth?

    This topic has always been one of some debate, from a personal perspective it was just one of the many ploys that my mother used to coax me to go to bed when I was a wee one! Today we know more about what actually happens to us when we sleep and the consequences of not getting enough quality shut eye. From credible research that links sleep deprivation to obesity to the abundance of apps that measure how many times we roll over, sleep is a hot topic and big business… Here’s what we know about sleep and the skin, and what happens when you don’t get enough!

    It’s Day Job

    In the daytime, the skin is very active fighting off potential invaders like bacteria and viruses while also neutralizing unstable molecules that cause havoc on cells. These are generated by UV, chemical exposure, smoke, stress, unhealthy diets and pollution. Just another reason why sunscreen is a must and preferably one with built in antioxidant technology. It’s not only you that has to work during the day: your skin has a long list of job responsibilities, too.

    The Night Shift

    At night the skin switches to clean up and repair mode while you rest, new skin cells replace damaged cells and rejuvenation takes place. In fact, cell regeneration increases by double at night and production of collagen also escalates. To help enhance this process, use or prescribe specialized overnight products, specifically those with microencapsulated Retinol and designer peptides that work on repairing skin. As the skin is clean and not in defense mode, it’s more readily able to absorb these helpful ingredients. Most people do best with about 7 hours sleep. Well rested skin looks exactly that — well rested, good tone, plump, fresh, hydrated and bright.

    Burning the Candle

    On the flip side, lack of sleep can be detrimental to both the skin and body. The body uses sleep time for internal housekeeping – processing nutrients, detoxifying, renewing and recharging. If your body is chronically starved for sleep, the effects will eventually become visibly and physically noticeable. Signs like slow healing breakouts or telltale dark circles and puffiness under the eyes are going to give you away, you’ll feel tired and look tired.

    Long Term? Think Zombie Skin!

    Something every party girl needs to know is that when you build up ‘sleep debt’ over time, this has long-term consequences. The aging process will be accelerated and the immune system will be impaired, which means you’ll be more susceptible to skin infections, cold sores maybe even skin cancer. For the body as a whole there are chronic effects like serious health issues, metabolic problems, high blood pressure, heart disease, diabetes, weight gain and depression.

    Top Tips For Some Quality Shut Eye

    Ready to change those sleeping habits? Here’s some helpful tips to get you on your way to rest and relaxation:

    •  No caffeinated beverages, tea or coffee after 4 pm (also no sugar at least 2 hours before bed).

    •  Working out after work or doing yoga also really helps not just for the body but for switching off the brain from work.

    •  No phones or bright LED lights next to the bed, or in the room for that matter. Try to black out your room as much as possible or try a sleep masque.

    •  Taking a bath with a blend of relaxing essential oils — the heat from the water soothes muscles, the aromas through you breathing them in will help you to unwind. The best essential oils for sleep are Lavender, Chamomile, Sandalwood, Ylang ylang and Rose.

  • 4 Tips to Maximize the Benefits of Retinoids

    The press is full of the virtues of using retinoids. And rightly so. The scientific data definitely validates them as probably the defining ingredient option of the decade for aging skin concerns. If your clients are using retinoid-based products prescribed by their dermatologist, or recommended by you as a professional skin therapist, it is worth sharing these important tips with them to yield the best results that retinoids can deliver.

    1. Use your retinoid product at night

    Unfortunately Vitamin A ingredients, such as Retinol, are not photo-stable. This means they degrade, or break down, in the presence of ultraviolet light. Not only can this reduce the benefit they will have on your skin, but can increase the free radical load, making skin more sensitive and reactive. So it’s essential to apply after dark and allow the retinoid to work its magic while you sleep.

    2. Introduce the retinoid gradually

    As we age retinoid receptors decline in the skin. But this can be remedied by using the dilutions recommended and building your skin’s tolerance. By applying gradually, you can build up the receptors and you will feel less ‘bite’ or sensitivity as you progress. Applying too much retinoid too quickly risks a dermatitis response that will leave skin very irritated. Use an accompanying buffer cream or your moisturizer to provide a dilution medium.

    3. Moisturize well

    It is not uncommon for skin to experience tightness, dryness or become flaky with retinoid use. The increased rate of skin renewal and desquamation initially causes the Stratum Corneum to thin, although this condition will improve over several weeks. The implications of this are increased dehydration and sensitivity that can make you quite uncomfortable in your own skin. Using a slightly heavier weight moisturizer will compensate for this water loss and ease discomfort, seek your professional skin therapist for a proper prescription.

    4. Always use SPF daily

    While there is a degree of debate on the specific mechanisms of increased photosensitivity with retinoid use, the skin will definitely be more vulnerable to ultraviolet exposure. Don’t worry about the debate, be safe and apply a minimum SPF30 daily and preferably an SPF50. Stop your retinoid at least two weeks before venturing on a sunshine holiday or you will burn faster and be at greater risk of hyperpigmentation issues.

    Taking sensible precautions will ensure you get the best out of your product and maintain your skin health, all while achieving fantastic results.

     

    Related blog posts:

    Is Microencapsulated Retinol Better Than Ordinary Retinol?

    Dr. Diana on the Benefits of Retinol

  • Is Microencapsulated Retinol Better Than Ordinary Retinol?

    While there is no question that Retinol is indeed one of the most effective age fighting ingredients available in skin care today, there is often confusion surrounding the different forms available in cosmetic products. Unfortunately, as effective as pure Retinol is in fighting the signs of aging, the reality is that it is not a very stable molecule. It breaks down in the presence of oxygen and light so great care must be exercised when formulating with Retinol to ensure that the active Retinol is still present 6 months later. Cosmetic manufacturers will often use metal or glaminate tubes with a narrow needle nose delivery orifice to minimize exposure to light and air.

    With the numerous clinical studies supporting the benefits of Retinol in skin care products, we have sought ways to optimize using this unstable molecule. Microencapsulation is a process whereby Retinol is subjected to a laboratory process that encapsulates the active molecule within a microscopic capsule or sphere that not only protects the unstable Retinol molecule, it facilitates controlled release delivery and enhanced penetration through the lipid bilayer of the skin. This is the result of the microcapsule structure being constructed of multiple layers of lipid membranes surrounding a solid Retinol containing core that allows for an easier transfer of the Retinol molecule. At the same time the very nature of the capsule enables a lipid film to form over the skin’s surface to impede trans epidermal water loss (TEWL).

    Formulating with microencapsulated Retinol is also advantageous over the free form of Retinol in that it protects the Retinol from oxidation or spoilage and extends the shelf life of the product. The microcapsules break when they are applied to the skin so that the Retinol is at its most active when delivered. And due to the lipid nature of the microencapsulation it facilitates a controlled release delivery with better penetration through the barrier lipids of the skin.

     

     

     

     

     

  • Zurich Welcomes New Training Center

    March was the perfect month to visit Zurich, Switzerland, as spring in Europe is magical. I love the cold, crisp air, the sun shimmering in the brilliant blue sky, it made the perfect backdrop for this beautiful and picturesque city to speak about.

    The first thing on my agenda was a media event, held at one of Dermalogica’s Corporate Skin Bars in the iconic Globus department store. This was the perfect environment to showcase the signature skin analysis and retailing concepts that guarantee success, as well as introduce to the media a new skin brightening product system. This was a really fun, engaging and entertaining event and everyone left enriched by the experience and ready to tackle those pesky spots!

    The best part of this visit was the privilege to be invited to officially ‘open’ the brand new Dermalogica offices and training center. The learning environment they have created for their customers is absolutely spectacular.

    A welcome breakfast was hosted by the team and food provided by one of Zurich’s top chefs, Pascal Schmutz. We got ‘down to business’ with the seminar focusing on ‘How to Sell to The Most Powerful Consumers on Earth,’ and the launch of the ‘Face Map Our Nation’ campaign, along with the new product system.  Having launched this campaign in Australia last year, it was a great opportunity to share our initiatives and success stories, and to inspire a little ‘friendly competition’ with the challenge to Face Map more people in Switzerland than Australia, proportionally to the size of the population of course! With the energy and enthusiasm displayed by the attendees I don’t this think will be too difficult a task at all.

    It was an honour and a delight to work with the inspired and energetic Swiss team, and a privilege to have the opportunity to meet with and speak to their very dedicated, passionate customers.

    The only real challenge of this visit, showing restraint by trying not to over indulge in the most delicious chocolate in the world!

  • Jane Wurwand Gives Big Advice for Small Business on INC.

    Jane Wurwand has made her mark in our industry. After all, she’s built IDI and Dermalogica into global brands, created a loyal base of skin therapists and consumers, and started the non-profit FITE to help empower women across the globe. So it’s fair to say she’s also built some street cred on the way and caught the eye of the business community at large; and our chief visionary spares no advice when it comes to running a successful business venture.

    Now you can watch her doing just that through The Playbook video series, provided by INC.com, where she offers advice for budding entrepreneurs and established business owners alike. Take a peek and see how these tips can help you start, run and grow your business — beginning with “How To Make Brainstorm Meetings Uber-Productive” featured below.

    Want more? Check out the other videos by Jane on INC.com:

    When Students Can Be Your Next Big Market Opportunity

    The Power of Word Choice to Build Your Brand

    Why Packaging is More Important Than You Think

    The Hidden Issue that Holds Women Business Owners Back

    No One Should Tell You How to Leave Your Business

    The Incomparable Benefits of Self-Financing

    How to Make Smart Decisions When You Don’t Have All of the Information

    How to Start a Multimillion Dollar Company without a Bank Account

    How to be a True Disrupter

    How to Design Products Your Customers Can’t Live Without

  • Can’t Touch This: More Proof on the Healing Power of Touch

    As touch givers we are attuned to the countless benefits of touch, for some of us it may have even served as the very catalyst to us choosing this profession. We can also appreciate the deep impact that touch can have, like releasing a physical knot that was also mental or vice versa, resulting in emotional release for a client as they let go of the grief, sadness, anger or pain that they may of harbored for so long.

    In recent years, the science at last has started to catch up and a wave of evidence based studies has started to surface about the physical and physiological effects of touch and massage. Thanks to organizations like the Touch Research Institute at the University of Miami, we know that touch boosts growth in preterm newborns, calms the “stress beast” cortisol while increasing other feel good, pain relieving, love potion hormones like endorphins and oxytocin. It helps regulate key neurotransmitters like serotonin and dopamine helping us to not only sleep better, crave less but also feel more enthusiastic and joyful. From helping with post traumatic stress disorder (PTSD), anorexia, cancer symptoms and dementia, the touch benefit list just keeps getting longer.

    Some new areas that have recently come to light delve deeper into the specifics of how we touch…

    Vagus Baby!

    The skin, as we know, is a sensory organ and is laden with nerve receptors. These receptors receive messages about pressure, temperature, pain and are incredibly sensitive. When a receptor is stimulated, it sends a signal along the nerve cells directly to the brain. The brain then co-ordinates the response, like the contraction of a muscle or a gland releasing a hormone into the bloodstream.  Interestingly, the deeper “pressure” receptors in the skin called the Pacinian corpuscles’ send a signal directly to an important nerve bundle deep in the brain called the Vagus nerve. The Vagus links directly to the heart and it’s this nerve that then slows the heart down and decreases blood pressure.

    Touch tip: Use deeper pressure, slow massage strokes to quickly and deeply bring about stress relief, key for hypertensive, high blood pressure and generally stressed out clients.

    Different Strokes for Different Folks

    As pro’s we know that the method of massage we use can energize someone feeling sluggish or calm down an angry, anxious client. But why is that? Researchers found that a seated massage lasting 15 minutes increases the production of epinephrine by stimulating the sympathetic nervous system. This helps people become more alert, more attentive, and therefore more productive.  A slower, longer, deeper and more rhythmic technique has quite the opposite effect, engaging the parasympathetic nervous system, reducing epinephrine levels, allowing a sense of deep relaxation, and facilitating deep sleep.

    Touch tip: Offer Energizing 15-minute chair massage, hand and arm or foot reflexology sessions in the mornings or at lunchtimes to capture new clients. Great for jet lagged travelers, tired moms, young partiers and office workers alike! Take these services offsite to companies who offer well-being programs for their employees.

    Monkey Business

    A new discovery about the function of certain sensory nerve cells, known as C tactile (CT) afferents, that are only found in the hairy skin of humans and mammals, has recently emerged. These nerve cells fire more slowly and only become stimulated with gentle rhythmic stroking movements like caressing. When they are activated by this type of touch, they flood the body with feelings of pleasure and also evoke our sense of self and embodiment. Their behavior suggests that the desire of having one’s skin stroked represents an innate, natural act that’s linked to the importance of social interaction; much like our hairy primate friends that enjoy the act of social grooming and nit nibbling.

    Neuroscientists are hopeful that knowing more about these cells might help us to understand pain perception, body image distortions and certain neurodevelopmental disorders.  As a Skin Therapist, I’m happy to know that at last we have some real proof about what we have believed to be true for so long. So the next time your client tells you your hands are amazing, magical or even miracle workers, tell them that’s right because indeed they are!

    References:

    http://www.academia.edu/3570732/Massage_increases_oxytocin_and_reduces_ACTH_in_humans

    http://www6.miami.edu/touch-research/Massage.html

    http://www.jneurosci.org/content/34/8/2879.full