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  • The Great Wall: Protecting The Skin’s Barrier Function

    You might not be able to see it from the moon nor with the naked eye, but one of the greatest walls ever built is that of the Barrier Function of the skin.

    This amazing feat of skin engineering means we have a strong, resilient ‘wall’ protecting our body from harsh environmental elements, helping to retain moisture and keeping allergens out.

    The Barrier Function is designed in the same manner as that of a wall, consisting of:
    • The bricks: the dead, dry skin cells which are soon to be shed
    The mortar: composed of lipids (ceramides, essential fatty acids and cholesterol)

    Sometimes the structure of this ‘brick wall’ is compromised and gaps can appear due to the lack of epidermal barrier lipids. As a result, our skin is susceptible to dehydration due to moisture escaping otherwise known as Trans Epidermal Moisture Loss (TEWL), and increased skin sensitivity as microbes and allergens now have a path of entry into the skin. There are many causes for the breakdown of this protective barrier, the most common being:
    The environment: cold, windy weather, air conditioning, heating, the sun, plane travel
    • Poor skin care: using harsh, stripping products like SD alcohol or soap, excessive exfoliation, water that is too hot, or not wearing a moisturizer
    Diet: excess alcohol, caffeine and salt consumption, not eating sufficient Essential Fatty Acids, insufficient water intake
    Stress: this itself can disturb the barrier function by slowing down synthesis of epidermal lipids
    Certain medications: such as nasal decongestants, general anesthetic, cancer therapies

    An impaired Barrier Function means the skin appears dull and lackluster. It can feel taught and flaky with fine lines around the eyes, over the forehead and cheeks. When pinched between the fingers, it will resemble a piece of parchment paper.

    Sadly, the Barrier Function declines with age as oil gland activity decreases, the skin’s natural hydrators decline as does its ability to regenerate these important lipids. The prolonged dehydration in the lower level of the skin can cause the depletion of the dermal tissue resulting in deeper wrinkles, elastosis and sagging skin.

    To re-establish a good Barrier Function, the key step to follow in a home care regimen is exfoliation. This step is important to prevent the skin from feeling dry, rough and flaky and it will help eradicate any dry patches. The key is not to use an aggressive exfoliant that causes any skin sensitivity or irritation. Try exfoliating boosters that are easily applied under the moisturizer and work gently throughout the day. There are also slightly stronger forms of exfoliations such as Hydroxy Acid, which can generally be used once or twice a week.

    To boost the moisture and regain the plumpness in the skin, apply layers of a hydrating serum, toner, moisturizer and primer (the skin responds well to layering). The moisturizer doesn’t need to be heavy or contain a lot of oil—a key point to remember is that the skin is lacking moisture, not oil. Try a medium weight moisturizer with SPF30 or higher. If the skin is tight and flaky, use an anhydrous (water free) moisturizer made with skin protecting silicones. This will seal in moisture and prevents the skin from drying out, while also helping to repair the Barrier Function. At night, look at applying an oil based serum or night oil to the areas of dry skin.

    For an added boost, apply a hydrating gel masque once a week, ensuring it’s applied close the corners of the nose, mouth and eyes to target these vulnerable areas.

    Though drinking water is important, it doesn’t correlate directly to having hydrated skin. It’s better to encompass products that hydrate the skin and protect your barrier function by preventing moisture loss.

    Some fantastic ingredients to use within your entire skin care regimen are for healthy Barrier Function include:
    Hyaluronic Acid: one of my favorite ingredients as it has the ability to hold 1000 times its own weight in moisture.
    Niacinamide: a potent form of vitamin B-3 with a multifunctional approach to treating dehydration. It addresses several aspects of dryness and dehydration simultaneously, thus protecting the skin from TEWL.
    Essential fatty acids (EFAs): look for Evening Primrose Oil, Borage Seed Oil, Shea Butter, Jojoba Oil and Coconut Oil; another great ingredient to combat dry skin is Beta glucan.
    Omega-6 EFAs: these specifically are required in forming the skin’s barrier function and its structural integrity
    Sodium PCA: a terrific humectant that binds moisture to the skin
    Salicornia Extract: a plant extract that helps reinforce the natural moisturization factor (NMF)
    Algae Extract: nutrient rich to restore skin’s moisture
    Tomato Seed Oil: a great source of lycopene-rich lipids that help restore the barrier lipids of the skin
    Bambusa (Bamboo) Vulgaris and Pisum Sativum (Pea): help stimulate Hyaluronic Acid formation for increased hydration and elasticity
    Glucosamine: helps stimulate Hyaluronic Acid formation

    It’s important to avoid soap and soap-based cleansers and body washes as the alkalinity dries the skin and causes sensitization. Also avoid products with S.D. Alcohol and hot water as both are very drying to the skin.

    And finally, don’t forget to feed your skin by including plenty of essential fatty acids in your diet!

  • Product Solutions: 3 Ways to Deep Clean the Skin

    deep-clean-blog

    Pore refining! Blemish free! Blackhead busting! All you have to do these days is flick through the latest copy of your favorite magazine or switch on the TV to see images of people with happy faces and flawless skin, usually accompanied with claims for products or ingredients that promise to deliver that clear skin we all strive for.

    In fact, breakouts and blackhead concerns follow very closely on the tail of our top contender, aging skin! And it’s no wonder because every one of us will experience unwanted blemishes at some point in our lives. I can bet that many of us even have a fail proof home remedy, like the humble toothpaste for example, which some believe can banish a spot overnight!

    Whatever the chosen method, for us as professional skin therapists there are varied options that enable us to graduate into different levels of ‘deep cleansing’, which we can recommend to our clients depending on their skin needs.

    Deep clean with Cleansers: Remove surface debris

    To fully reap the rewards of a consistent skincare routine we need to ensure that we start out with the most important step of all, a thorough cleanse. The ‘often underestimated’ cleanse can either make or break the remaining steps of any skin care routine or professional treatment. Many of our clients are under the impression that a cleansing wipe is all it takes to wipe away the grime that collects on the skin throughout the day, but unfortunately this is not enough to remove hard wearing makeup, SPF and dirt. To ensure a deep and effective cleanse we advise to do a ‘double cleanse’. 

    Using an oil based cleanser for the first cleanse is a bit like using a magnet to attract excess oils and debris from the skin. It is brilliant for lifting that initial film of impurities and preventing potential breakouts that can occur through poor cleansing habits. However, there is the small minority of clients who won’t be swayed to use any kind of oil on their skin especially if oiliness is their key concern. In this instance it is best to opt for a clay based cleanser containing a hint of Menthol, which will absorb excess oil and act as an astringent, leaving the skin matte and refined—an oil-phobe’s dream!

    To enhance the cleansing step there are additional tools we can use such as a soft bristle brush which will further assist with removing oils and debris, turning an ordinary cleanse into power cleanse.

    Deep clean with Exfoliants: Renew and refine 

    As we already know, our skin naturally renews and sheds itself every 28 days or so. However, for various reasons this process can sometimes become a bit sluggish and needs some intervention… enter exfoliation. We know that exfoliation smooths and brightens the surface of the skin by removing dead and dulling skin cells but it also helps to clear out excess oil in the follicles, the combination of these two elements are the usual suspects in the formation of the dreaded ‘spot’. There are different types of exfoliants we can choose from such as a scrub, which make use of ingredients like Corn Cob Meal to gently polish the skin. Other types are hydroxy acids and enzymes, which include ingredients such as the lipid loving Salicylic Acid that actively clears out any impactions and provides anti-inflammatory properties to help reduce obvious redness and irritation. Whatever your client’s skin concern, this is that key step that can bring about dramatic and instant change to the skin, especially when it comes to keeping unsightly breakouts at bay.

    Deep clean with Masques: Detox and purify 

    The possibilities are endless when it comes to treating the skin with a masque. Yet this is often the step of a home care routine that is neglected, so we need to ensure that we are communicating the benefits of masquing to our clients. Introducing a masque into the routine is the best way of getting highly active ingredients into the skin in a matter of minutes, and the good news is that we can use more than one in order to address a number of skin concerns often found in different areas of the face at the same time. A great option for purifying and detoxifying is a current trending ingredient, Activated Charcoal, which is great for pulling impurities out the skin leaving a smooth and more lively looking complexion.

    When we hear the term ‘deep cleanse’ we tend to think only of oily or congested skin as the perfect candidate, when in actual fact all skins can benefit from a good clear out. With Spring around the corner many people will be planning on de-cluttering their homes and living spaces, so what better time than now to do the same with our clients’ skin. Bring it back to basics to achieve a fresh and luminous looking skin this Spring.

  • 3 Skin Care Habits Your Clients Should Keep Up With

    Tara - tempJanuary 1st brings many New Year’s resolutions to get healthy and take better care of ourselves. This usually brings the promise of going to the gym, eating better, and getting more sleep. However, another great way to take care of yourself is to focus on skin health! Most clients understand the importance of daily cleansing and moisturizing, but is that really enough? Think about the benefits of including weekly exfoliation, an at home masque and daily application of SPF. Not only will your clients see an immediate improvement in their skin, but your retail sales will also get a nice boost.

    So, why should a client exfoliate at home? Our skin goes through a natural exfoliation process called desquamation to help eliminate the buildup of dead skin cells. As we age, this process begins to slow down from every 28 days to 90+ days, resulting in dull skin. Thus, at home exfoliation is key to maintaining a youthful appearance. Clients will notice brighter skin tone, less breakouts, softened lines and smoother texture. Depending on the type of exfoliant (Scrub, Enzyme or Hydroxy Acids), recommended use may be 2-3 times per week. In some cases even a gentle daily microfoliation can be prescribed. Exfoliation should be performed after cleansing and will prepare the skin for the next important step in skin health, a masque!

    DERM_At_Home_Female_32637What does a masque really do? They are treatment products formulated to deliver concentrated ingredients directly to the skin. Think of it like this, a mini at home skin treatment in a bottle. A perfect way to give the skin a pick-me-up in between professional skin treatments. Depending on your client’s skin condition recommend a masque with multivitamins to nourish and replenish, Hyaluronic Acid and Tomato Seed Oil to hydrate and repair, or Activated Charcoal to detoxify the skin. If your client is time-compressed, help them choose a masque that does double duty with enzymes that act as an exfoliant too!

    Last, but certainly not least, everyone should apply SPF daily. We all know how important it is to apply your sunscreen during a hot summer day, but it is equally important to apply it on a cold rainy day. Temperature does not affect the UV index and clouds do not block all UV rays, in fact some cloud types increase the UV exposure. Remind your clients, if you can see the sun, it can see you. The sun’s potent UV rays can penetrate through windows too, so daily application of SPF will prevent cumulative photo-damage. Recommending a moisturizer with SPF is an easy way to ensure daily application.

    Don’t forget to help your client’s choose the best products for their skin by offering complimentary skin analysis with a detailed product prescription!

  • Top 3 Post-Grad Courses Every Skin Therapist Should Take

    Tara - tempOur industry has evolved from the idea of applied beauty to in-depth knowledge of skin, and there are several trends in continuing education that exhibit these changes. We have noticed an abundance of post graduate workshops and seminars that promise profitability, but will they truly deliver? Let’s take a look at three hot skin care classes that can elevate your skill set as a professional skin therapist that will wow your clients, and maybe even a future employer.

    Medical Skin Care

    The medical field is utilizing skin therapists evermore to help improve the health of a patient’s skin pre and post-surgery. Skin treatments are usually offered as part of a package combined with medical procedures; thus making a huge opportunity to grow our skill set and become profitable when working hand in hand with doctors. Sign up for a class that discusses common MediSpa procedures such as injectables, lasers and skin needling and how to navigate the MediSpa environment.

    DERM_IDI_Modalities_31521Advanced Exfoliation

    Are you properly prepared to offer state-of-the-art treatments like hydro-dermabrasion, ultrasound and/or chemical peels? Just because we can use these tools doesn’t mean we understand their full potential. For that reason, education will allow us to learn how to get the most out of our treatments. Take a class that shows you how to apply these advanced exfoliation techniques and how they can be used alone or other with products. Incorporating these advances in exfoliation can help you give express treatments that yield immediate results!

    Oncology Skin Care

    Cancer has long been considered a contraindication for professional treatment—that is until now! It all starts with one question: Do you have any compromised lymph nodes? This question opens up a conversation with a client to let us know how to proceed with the proper modifications. Learn about oncology skin care to understand proper modifications for massage, products to avoid, and how to safely care for an oncology patient. Not only are you performing a beneficial service, but also growing your business at the same time.

    Don’t know where to start? Take a look at IDI’s class offerings (USA) and lectures such as: Medical Skin Care: What Therapists Need To Know; Acids, Peels, and Exfoliants; and Cancer Aware: Client Safety and Lymphedema. No matter where you work or the treatments you offer, it is always important to stay CONNECTED!

  • Get Bikini Wax Ready

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    With the summer months just around the corner, many people are looking forward to spending time at the beach or the pool, and for some – they are mentally preparing for their bikini wax. Whether your client is veteran of hair removal or is new to this grooming habit, here are some quick tips to ensure your client has a safe and successful treatment.

    Meet and Greet

    When booking the waxing service, be sure to ask the client when they are expecting to unveil their skin to the sun. Ideally, the client should wait to wax at least 48 hours before or after any UV exposure. A proper consultation is imperative and it will help you assess any contraindications, such as infected skin, systemic diseases, diabetes and oral medications like Isotretinoin. Don’t forget to communicate the extent of hair removal with the client. Going bare or barely there can determine not only the length of the appointment but the type of wax you may want to use (hard wax versus strip wax). Soft or cream wax is perfect for larger areas and hard wax is excellent for those intimate areas since it is used at a low temperature. This wax literally shrink wraps the hair and is less irritating to the skin. It’s also a perfect time to discuss common reactions expected with a waxing service such as bumps or minor irritation. For females close to their monthly cycle, it’s recommended to wax no less than two-three days before or after to help lessen chances of sensitivity.

    Pre-game Checklist

    Once the appointment has been booked, the client should begin preparing for the treatment. I’m not talking meditation, but a few grooming items can make the service go smoothly. Suggest the client gently exfoliate the area two to three days prior to the service to help lift the hair and remove any dead skin cell build up. Shaving should be discontinued 10-14 days prior to allow for the proper hair growth, about ¼” to ½” is ideal. They should also keep hydrated both internally with water and externally with a fragrance-free body moisturizer. The more hydrated the skin, the better the waxing experience. Dehydrated and dry skin can often result in lifting. Advise the client to avoid alcohol and caffeine before the service as both can serve as a stimulant and pre-sensitize the skin.

    After-care Advice 

    The waxing service does not end once the hair has been removed. An at-home care checklist is always helpful for the client to review and understand. For 48 hours after the bikini wax, recommend that they avoid sun tanning and tanning beds, saunas, or swimming as well as intense exercise, sweating and tight clothing. Do suggest light exfoliation a few times a week in between their services to help prevent ingrown hairs. Once the client is waxed and ready for fun in the sun, remind them to apply sunscreen along that exposed bikini line to avoid a UV burn.

  • A Tale of Two Cities: From Dubai to Moscow

    I had quite the journey flying over 8,000 miles from Los Angeles to United Arab Emirates (UAE) to Russia for the opportunity to represent IDI. When I first saw my itinerary I saw two very different worlds, apart from my own, but then I remembered the common interest I share with my hosts – the passion for skin therapy.

    My first stop was in Dubai, UAE, a city known for its luxury and amazing modern architecture. I had to find out why it’s been dubbed as the “City of Gold” and I discovered why walking around the gold souk or outdoor marketplace – I had never seen so much gold in such a small area! I even had the opportunity to go on a desert safari and ride a camel for the first time during my visit.

    But the true purpose for my visit was to present to 140 skin therapists and business owners who want to take their clients’ skin to a new level of skin health. I lectured on the latest cosmetic treatments that could be incorporated with their current product line, Dermalogica, and introduced a new chemical peel system to their market. It was great to see their eagerness build as they planned for new treatments to expand their menu and offer to clients. It was also a treat to meet students from Saudi Arabia, Lebanon and other parts of UAE to join in the day’s festivities.

    Then I hopped on a plane to my next destination – Russia. I landed in Moscow, bundled up and ready for the chilly, snowy weather; compared to the desert, camels and sunny beaches I just left behind!

    The two day event in Moscow began with discussing the wide-ranging topic of pigmentation, followed by a chemical peel demonstration to address signs of hyperpigmentation commonly seen on clients. Ranging between skin therapists, business owners and physicians, our guests mingled with each other as if they never wanted the evening to end.  As the event drew to a close there was a particular buzz of excitement, that feeling of connection as a tribe.

    We had a smaller more, intimate group of 11 educators from Russia, Kazakhstan and Azerbaijan on the second day in Moscow. Through a translator, I was able to educate them on the particulars of chemical peels and guided them all through a hands on practical. Their glowing skin and radiant smiles were enough to tell me they were enjoying the day.

    Thankfully I had a free day for some sightseeing. Braving the cold, I set out on foot to see famous buildings I had only seen in pictures until now. I enjoyed sights such as the eclectic art market of Arabat Street and the Alexander Garden right outside the Kremlin. Walking to the end of the Red Square, I was able to enjoy the colorful architecture of St Basil’s Cathedral. As my tour came to an end, I had an unforgettable evening watching the Russian Ballet perform.

    Although my travels took me to two extremes, my purpose was the same: to give our students the tools to grow their business and reach others through the healing power of touch.

     

     

     

     

  • Prepping Party Perfect Skin

    Flash Glow Holiday Skin

    I’m sorry, what? The holidays are still three weeks away? Hard to believe, especially as my favorite coffee shop has been serving drinks in holiday cups since before Halloween! And if I hear one more rendition of “Walking in a Winter Wonderland” when it’s 75 degrees outside (I’m in L.A people!) I may have to take serious action… but, putting my bah humbugs aside, it does mean that there is still plenty of time to get your clients’ skin ready with some pre-party prepping… fabulous!

    Let’s Start with Treatments

    What do your clients want from a skin treatment prior to their big holiday event? I’ll tell ya… they want quick fixes and rapid results. They do not, and I can’t state this clearly enough, they do not, want candy cane facials or sugar plum pamper treatments… really, they don’t!

    If you’re off to a big event, you want radiant skin and you want it quickly. Rapid exfoliation treatments are key in party season. By rapid, I’m talking 20 minutes or less, bam! Out the door with glowing skin and a home care kit. Other 20-minute quick fix treatments to consider are breakout solutions, de-puffing eye treatments and of course smoothing lip treatments, to make that pucker mistletoe ready.

    Work in a full service salon? Well then team up! Quick fix skin treatment, blow dry, make-up application, nail polish. 1 hour and 20 minutes, ready from head to toe…..AND, a great way to cross promote all services to your existing client base.

    Getting Party-Ready at Home

    If your clients are looking to get party ready at home, consider a “Party Primer Product Package” for them to take home. I would suggest the following bundled together:

    Prep: A leave-on exfoliant will help to smooth the skin and give it a healthy glow. You need a hydroxy acid base with skin brighteners such as Rice Extract, ideally in a delivery system that provides a premeasured dose, so no over exfoliation takes place. Some other great options include an exfoliation masque with hydroxy acids AND enzymes, along with Diatomaceous earth to help refine pores; or a multivitamin skin polisher that imparts a blast of warmth like that first sip of hot cocoa, which also helps to drive ingredients further into the skin.

    Prime: Primers are used to smooth out the surface of the skin and help extend the wear of make-up. Unfortunately many primers on the market contain comedogenic waxes and fillers that can lead to congestion, skin irritation and even sensitivity. Ensure your recommended primer is skin friendly, or even better provides skin benefits. Look for non comedogenic smoothing agents such as Silica, natural skin luminosity providers like Hydrolyzed Pearl Powder or a non-drying ingredient like Mushroom Extract that also helps refine pores.

    Preserve: A toning mist can help keep the skin moist (as long as it’s alcohol free) and improve the appearance of skin texture. I find clients like a toner that has a flash firming property for added benefit, key ingredients being Bamboo and Pea Extract. A hydrating toner can also be spritzed over make-up to give a dewy effect.

    Post Party Apocalypse

    The likelihood is that more than one of your clients fell into bed post party with a face full of make-up, so ensure clients have plenty of oil-based cleanser with Borage Seed and Apricot Kernel oils, which all help to eliminate surface dirt and oil.

    Okay, I think we’re good to go. Let the partying commence!

  • The Benefits of Pumpkin Ingredients on the Skin

    Pumpkin2

    Autumn can play some nasty tricks on your skin with its winds and chilly weather. But you can give your skin a treat by using the perfect ingredient of the season, pumpkin, to reveal glowing new skin underneath.

    Pumpkin contains a lot of amazing properties that benefit the skin in many different ways. So how does pumpkin help skin?

    • Pumpkin is packed with fruit enzymes and alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), which increase cell turnover, to brighten and smooth the skin.

    • Pumpkin contains antioxidant Vitamin A and Vitamin C to help soften and soothe the skin and boost collagen production to prevent the signs of aging.

    • Zinc in pumpkin seeds is brilliant for acne sufferers. Zinc will help control the hormone level and oil production, as well as assist with healing of the skin.

    • Pumpkin seeds are high in essential fatty acids and Vitamin E, which are necessary to maintain good barrier function of the skin. They also regulate sebum, great for an oily skin.

    • The molecular structure of pumpkin is small and therefore can penetrate deeper into the skin when used topically. This is amazing for treating a dull complexion, aging skin and pigmentation.

    Due to the many benefits pumpkin has, clients can adjust their home care routine to include products with this key ingredient. Start with recommending a day moisturizer with SPF, especially if they’re concerned with hyperpigmentation. Look for formulations with unique encapsulation technology that time-releases active ingredients and sunscreens into the skin for enhanced ultraviolet (UV) protection, while inhibiting melanosome activity and providing hydration benefits.

    Pair it up with a night time treatment moisturizer that also contains peptides, antioxidants and plant extracts like Giant White Bird of Paradise Seed and Moth Bean Seed to improve luminosity, strengthen skin and increase cell turnover all while they sleep.

    For the best results this season, it’s simple – target skin with products containing pumpkin!

  • The Summer Skin Switcheroo

    Heather HickmanOH YEAH BABY! Summer’s here, not that we have actually noticed here in supposedly sunny California, I guess “June Gloom” is just a way of life for the beach dwelling Angelino. But my gripes aside, now’s the time to start thinking about varying your clients Skin Care routines and cranking up your treatment offerings to address those seasonal skin shifts.

    Hey, Heather! I hear you cry “isn’t changing my clients’ skin care routine just a cunning ploy to make them buy more product?”… No ma’am, it is not! Read on and try not to weep…

    When sunlight comes into contact with skin, a cascade of damage results – like the stripping of barrier lipids causing dehydration and inflammation, the production of reactive oxygen molecules that affect healthy cell growth and the stimulation of collagen destructing enzymes. Need I continue?

    Congestion and breakouts can also result on oilier skins, mainly from the use of daily SPF and increased humidity and temperature levels. We (hopefully?) use more sunscreen in the summer months and these are designed to adhere to the skin and sit on the surface. Not cleansing the skin thoroughly enough will result in breakouts. Chlorine, salt water, heat, humidity and travel also lead to dehydration, which are a big part of the summer lifestyle. Get the picture? Well alrighty then. Now that we are in agreement that a change is in order, let the games begin!

    Keeping it Clean
    Switch your clients to an oil based cleanser. I know, it sounds a bit scary, but oil dissolves oil… yes, really! An oil based cleanser will eliminate excess sunscreen, dirt and grime, leaving a cleaner, clearer skin. And a gentle reminder to double down on the double cleanse won’t hurt either, twice in the morning, twice in the evening.

    The Key to Hydration Is…?
    EXFOLIATION! Corny, I agree, but true none the less.

    You want to up the ante while ensuring that you are choosing the right exfoliant for your clients’ skin type: gentle rice bran for sensitive skin, hydroxy acids and Vitamin A for aging skin and clay-based exfoliants with enzymes and Salicylic Acid for oily skin.

    Portable Spritz
    Cruising around with the roof down and sitting in an air conditioned environment: cool though it may be, it can suck every drop of moisture out of the skin.

    A great tip for your clients is to always carry a mini spritz toner in their purse to mist and hydrate skin throughout the day. Using a toner under moisturizer also helps layer moisture, even out absorption and stretches the moisturizer further when the skin is damp. Look for hydrating ingredients like Aloe Vera, Balm Mint and Lavender.

    At our company stores, we love putting travel size spritz toners on ice by the front door during the summer, so our clients can sample the product and hydrate and cool down at the same time.

    Defying Gravity
    Your goal is to fortify and strengthen the skin throughout the summer months. Packing the skin with age-fighting antioxidants, peptides and botanicals to protect against free radical damage and enzymatic breakdown of proteins will help prevent ultraviolet (UV), age-related damage. Look for cocktails of Vitamins E, C, D, E, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide, tripeptides, oligopeptides and Retinol in serums and concentrates to go under moisturizers or in eye creams.

    Breakouts Be Gone
    For those clients who tend to break out, be sure to recommend an oil-free SPF. Treat any summer breakouts with a topical solution containing 5% Benzoyl Peroxide or Salicylic Acid. This will kill bacteria, expedite healing and no doubt make your client summer far more pleasurable.

    Seasonal Treatments
    If we are changing up our clients home care routine, we should follow suit by offering seasonal specific treatments too. One of our favorites is an SOS (save our skin) summer quick fix:

    Of course, you are going to use your oil based cleanser – that goes without saying. We then use a gel-based after sun product and galvanize it into the skin with positive polarity galvanic current, or we penetrate the product with microcurrent. Follow this with a calming and hydrating oatmeal masque, an application of a Hyaluronic Acid-based serum and an oil free sunscreen, and you have the perfect summer skin pick me up… you’re welcome!

    Enjoy your summer!

  • Treatments and Techniques for Aging Skin

    Bettina ZammertHardly any other issue in skin care is as important as aging. This is little wonder, because the “baby boomer” generation is not willing to simply accept skin aging. Expert knowledge is essential for anyone wishing to advise these discerning customers.

    In the past, it was always assumed that lines and wrinkles, sagging skin, and hyperpigmentation were part of the normal aging process and could not be influenced, or if so, then only slightly. However, new research has shown that over 90% of the changes that we see in our skin are due to exposure to daylight (photoaging), which is something we can protect ourselves against. No more than 10% is due to genetic factors.

    So it is quite clear that the best product to use against skin aging is good daylight protection, every day. It should be included in all home care regimens, and active ingredients such as antioxidants and peptides are “super weapons” in the fight against skin aging.

    Intensive exfoliation is particularly important in professional treatments for aging skin, since it increases the cell renewal rate and improves the absorption of the active ingredients. Many customers experience an increase in hyperpigmentation as they age. Treating this discoloration requires active ingredients that reduce melanin synthesis in the skin to a normal level. Systematic, consistent home is required, in combination with a professional treatment series, to bring about the desired success.

    When treating aging/changing skin, it is extremely important to remain reasonable with regard to expectations. Under no circumstances should you promise your customers any miracles, because you will quickly look unprofessional. Instead, work with your customer to draw up a precise treatment plan and the matching home treatment routine. This will show your customers that you are competent, and the expected treatment success will be achieved even more quickly!