News

  • A Warm Exchange: Greek Skin Therapists Learn Business Tips from IDI

    We love to host visitors from around the world in our Leatherhead, United Kingdom location. This is always a favorite part of our role as many visitors may have never been to the UK or even traveled outside of their own country.

    From June 16-17, we hosted a fantastic two day training event for a group of skin therapists from Greece. Their trip began with visiting London over the weekend where they wandered around the top sightseeing spots at their leisure.

    On Monday morning, they arrived excited and ready to begin the days meeting. Our International team inspired them with the IDI seminar “Solar Damage and Protection,” a topic that’s extremely relevant for the sunny Greek market! They were totally blown away by the information and just loved seeing everything put into practice with a creative demonstration that followed the lecture.

    The following day turned to a business focus to help them cope with the economic crisis – hit especially hard in Greece. Our new business workshop on express treatments was a great hit, they left the workshop extremely motivated and inspired with ideas to take back to their market. Some things they learnt were choosing which express treatments they can implement into their business back home and how to market and promote these treatments effectively, especially when you’re in a business that has lost many service and retail clients due to the economic crisis.

    We also covered the flexibility of offering express treatments – how they can be offered outside of a treatment room or used off site to promote their business. They especially learnt a lot from the demonstration, noticing the key differences between a 20-minute express treatment versus a full 60-minute treatment – they have fixed stages that are flexible according to the client’s key concerns, goals and what should be prioritize in the treatment.

    Their visit came to a close with a very special thank you from our team, by taking them to see and experience an express treatments firsthand at the Dermalogica Bentalls concept store in Kingston upon Thames, Surrey. A perfect way to help cement what they learnt! Next a celebratory lunch on the river was the perfect way to end such a successful and enjoyable visit from such passionate and dedicated skin therapists. We will miss them!

    Here’s some feedback that reflects how important and impactful our education can be.

    “Every time I get back from a seminar I raise the level of my work.” – Lekka Aikaterini

    “As always learnt and gained a lot, lessons had consistency and trainers were perfect.” – Giolanta Agatsidou

  • Stay Sun Smart and Save a Life

    With the change in seasons we should be saying goodbye to the winter and hello to the summer.  As the sun has finally made an appearance, so has more bronzed skin, occasional peeling and maybe pink bodies? It’s not just British tradition to shrug off our clothes the minute we feel a few rays, but after years of warnings about skin cancer, shouldn’t we have learned our lesson?

    At the beginning of this year our team’s focus has been to share our knowledge about solar damage and protection. We have been very busy taking IDI congresses on the road, travelling and educating markets in Europe, Africa & Middle East on such a valuable subject.

    As professional skin therapists, we still face the challenge of educating people that daylight protection is a must for any skin, any race and should be used daily. Even though consumers may feel good from the sun’s rays, do they look good? And are they aware of the huge risk of skin cancer? In the UK, the number of reported cases of skin cancer has more than quadrupled since the 1970s and over 2,600 people die from skin cancer each year — but this increase is on a global scale. The highest rates of malignant melanoma are reported in Australia and New Zealand.

    Not only do we have to deal with such shocking facts, we are also faced with the constant bombardment of TV celebrities showing off their tanned skin and the general perception that tanned skin is more desirable, teens, especially girls, are purposefully avoiding sun protection and some are even seeking the sun. This has become such a problem that some countries have adopted a law banning underage people from visiting tanning salons. That’s why our job as a professional skin therapist is more important than ever. Not only are we experts on treating the skin but we must also become experts in educating consumers on using daily protection.

    Here are some expert tips from our IDI team that you can share with your clients:

    “A great tool to download is the mole map from the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD). You can give this to your clients as a hand out for prevention against skin cancer.” – Geraldine Schefermann, IDI UK International Regional Education Manager

    “Don’t forget to apply your SPF daily for protection, even on a cloudy day. Apply your sunscreen to all skin (face, ears, hands, neck, etc.). You can even apply as lip balm to your lips. Look for a sunscreen that is broad spectrum, as this will protect against UVA and UVB rays. The label must say broad-spectrum or UVA/UVB protection. If it does not say either, you may wish to look for another product.” – Victoria Convy, IDI UK International Corporate Trainer

    “It is advised to wear long sleeves, trousers, tightly woven fabrics, wide brim hat and large sunglasses that absorb UV. You can purchase clothes that have a UPF rating (ultraviolet protection factor) that blocks out both UVA and UVB (SPF is just UVB). Some fabrics do a better job than others; polyester is excellent, whereas cotton and rayon score low. UPF50 indicates a fabric or garment will allow only 1/50th (approximately 2%) radiation to pass through.” – Sharon Maxwell, IDI UK International Education Manager for Europe, Africa & Middle East

    “Don’t forget that whilst driving you can also catch the sun. A great idea is to keep an SPF product in the glove box of your car. You can then apply as needed, especially to the backs of your hands whilst driving” – Maria Thorburn, IDI UK International Senior Instructor

    “When you are near water, snow, or at the beach, watch out as reflection can increase the intensity of UV.  Make sure you are re-applying SPF every 2 hours and immediately after swimming.” – Arabella Lane, IDI UK International Training Specialist

    For more information on sun protection and skin cancer visit:

    www.aad.org     

    www.skincancer.org   

    www.cancerresearchuk.org

     

  • Sunscreen and Expiration Dates Explained

    Taking sunbath

    One of the most critical products that I would advocate a client use before any other type of skin care product would be a sunscreen. We know that Ultraviolet radiation (UVR) is responsible for a number of skin concerns ranging from various forms of hyperpigmentation to more serious precancerous and cancerous lesions. We also know that approximately 80-99% of extrinsic aging comes from exposure to UVR! For this reason, The International Dermal Institute recommends using sunscreen every day, not just during the summer months.

    The FDA requires that all sunscreens retain their original strength for at least 2-3 years, and in order to make these claims the sunscreen formula has to undergo a series of real time or accelerated stability tests to prove that the ingredient is still active up until the time of expiration. It’s important to point out at this point that if you’re using sunscreen every day and in the correct amount, a tube should not last that long. Most clients don’t realize that their sunscreen has a limited time in which it can be used effectively, so it may be a good idea to point out the expiration date to the client when they purchase their next sunscreen product from you. Most expiration dates can be found stamped on the crimp of the product packaging tube or printed on the bottom of the product carton.

    If sunscreens have expired there is a good chance they are still good for a few months; however once you reach the expiration date there is no guarantee that the level of activity is still present. You may also want to point out a few of these basic but important tips to your clients next time they inquire about purchasing their sunscreen from you:

    • The best place to store your SPF product is in a cool place out of direct sunlight and heat.

    • Buy smaller sizes of your SPF product vs. larger “30% extra for free” products, which will inevitably expire before you get a chance to use them all and you’ll end up having to throw them out.

    • Don’t use any SPF formulation that contains fragrance or perfume as this may cause hyperpigmentation and, in some cases, a photosensitized reaction on the skin.

    • If your client has a more sensitive skin, she or he would be better off using a physical SPF (containing Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide), as these formulations tend to have a larger molecular size that does not penetrate and potentially cause irritation.

    • Try to look for a formulation that can potentially deliver additional skin health benefits, such as Vitamin E and Vitamin C to the skin, as these types of sunscreens help to minimize the amount of free radical damage to the skin, thereby offering a more advanced level of protection.

    • Many clients are hesitant to use sunscreen because they feel the formulations are too thick, heavy or pore clogging. Professional products, however, use new technology that delivers more sophisticated SPFs, which have the ability to benefit different skin types and conditions. This allows you to prescribe a sunscreen that’s perfectly customized to your clients’ needs.

  • How to Repair the Skin From Sun Damage

    Bettina ZammertSome people are surprised to find someone in Germany writing about the effects of the sun’s rays – after all, Germany is not necessarily a country that is automatically associated with super sunny summers. Yet we do have a surprising number of days on which the thermometer rises to 30°C (86°F) and higher, and we find ourselves longing for a refreshing rain shower. And people who want to be sure of seeing the sun in summer will often travel south to do so, but not many of them will use regular sun protection to protect themselves against the daily damage that is caused by ultraviolet (UV) rays.

    Without a doubt, the easiest signs of sun damage to treat are visible changes in the skin, such as dry, dull skin cells that result in irregular appearance, and blocked follicles caused by a UV-induced increase in cell division. Results are achieved with a good exfoliation that is matched to the condition of the skin. And we’re not only talking about mechanical exfoliation with granules. In particular, products containing hydroxy acids, such as Lactic Acid, create even results and provide much-needed moisture. And speaking of moisture: the skin is rarely as thirsty as it is after a long summer! Hydrating gel masks, moisturizing sprays and active concentrates are absolutely essential at this time.

    Hyperpigmentation is a different matter altogether, one in which you will always need the services of a professional skin therapist. Treatment of this condition, when the result of UV exposure, is more challenging because the skin experiences damage to the collagen and elastic fibers in the dermis. Fortunately, we now have the means to influence our skin with ingredients such as peptides, which are a group of active substances that are particularly effective. Some peptides can stimulate collagen production, and others are able to reduce excess pigmentation to a more normal level. Combined with other ingredients that target aging, such as antioxidants, we have some strong helpers in the fight against skin aging.

    While technology provides us with the means to keep our skin healthy, safe and youthful, the absolute first step for healthy skin with no visible effects of photoaging is as always to wear suitable sun protection. And with such a large selection, we know for sure that we have the right sun protection for every skin type!

  • Why do I Need Sunscreen Year Round?

    Exposure to daylight and ultraviolet (UV) rays on a daily basis means we really need to ensure we’re protecting our skin year round. The myth that you’re not exposed or susceptible to skin damage from UV radiation in the colder, winter months has defiantly been busted!

    With our current knowledge of the potential damaging effects of UV rays, it should be unthinkable to leave the skin exposed to the elements. Wearing a sunscreen whenever exposed to daylight is just a small way that we can boost our body’s defense against the ravages of UV radiation. Studies from Queensland Institute of Medical Research in Herston, Australia, have reported that individuals who wear sunscreen daily, even in winter, had 24% fewer Actinic Keratoses (the most common precancerous skin lesion) than people who applied it once in a while.

    Broad spectrum sunscreens protect us from UVA rays, the aging rays of the sun, and therefore they can honestly claim to “aid in the prevention of premature aging,” or words to that effect. Since we have an enormous trend from the global consumer to look younger for longer, our sun protection products should easily be our number 1 best sellers.

    As manufacturers respond to recent research, you’ll notice that the latest products being released in the sun protection category are also formulated with powerful antioxidants. These are used to counteract the negative photo aging effects of free radicals (from daylight) on the skin. There are a plethora of antioxidants, including vitamins and plant botanicals. Manufacturers now wishing to include antioxidants in their sunscreen products are faced with a new challenge: how to keep the antioxidants inactive on the skin until they come into contact with UV exposure and thus neutralize the free radicals. Recent research has come up with a very intelligent answer to this problem in the form of microencapsulation that holds a potent mix of Vitamin C and Vitamin E, which are only released when the capsule comes into contact with UV exposure. So you can apply your sunscreen, knowing the antioxidants will release whenever it’s time to go outdoors.

    Here’s a quick guide to effective, year round, sun protection products:

    • Choose formulas that are multi-functional, such as those that can be incorporated in your moisturizer or even double as a daily moisturizer. Look for products that protect the skin from dehydration by providing a boost of moisture, and use formulas that have anti-inflammatory properties to help calm and soothe the skin and strengthen the capillaries to prevent leaking, which is negative of UV exposure.

    • There are some fantastic moisturizing sunscreens that also include ingredients such as peptides, which address the condition of the skin and the signs of aging.

    • Ultraviolet rays can cause hyperpigmentation (year round), so wearing sun protection can dramatically reduce the incidence of skin discoloration. Ideally the product will be fragrance free, as this prevents photo aging from chemical exposure.

    • Many people avoid wearing sunscreen, especially in winter, as they believe it can cause breakouts. The answer to this is simple: look for non-comedogenic products, which won’t contain skin-clogging ingredients.

    • Avoid sunscreens that contain artificial colors, which can not only be irritating, but also comedogenic.

    • Remember to choose sun protection products that also contain a good dose of antioxidants to fight those very nasty free radicals that want to wreck and age our skin.

    Some key, non-sunscreen related ingredients for sun protection to look out for are:

    • Antioxidants: Green Tea, White Tea, Grape Seed, Licorice, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Tocopherol.

    • Anti-inflammatory ingredients: Green Tea, Lavender, Yeast Extract and Licorice, which all soothe inflamed skin.

    We have come a long way in the arena of sun protection, but we are by no means where we need to be. Too many people still go out unprotected daily, and as a result, suffer the perils of UV exposure. Having said that, it’s heartening to know that one of the fastest growing sectors of our industry is that of sun protection. This increased demand will, in turn, have a positive effect by fueling greater and speedier advancements in ingredient technology and ultimately help prevent damage to people’s skin.

  • What Exactly is a Sunburn?

     

    iStock_000026840233Small

    How many of you have ever experienced a sunburn? I’m guessing that almost all of us have, with an embarrassing blush! Yes, we know it’s wrong and we kick ourselves when we are wincing with pain as we try to dress. But maybe if we truly understood what is happening to our skins as we nonchalantly lay in the sun for that extra 10 minutes, we wouldn’t be so lax.

    What is a Sunburn?

    A sunburn is the skin’s response to extreme ultraviolet (UV) exposure and indicates severe damage. In as little as 10 minutes of intense UV exposure, the skin sets into motion a system of defense against this enemy. The first indication of damage is redness. This is the body’s inflammatory response in situations requiring repair and is a result of dilating blood vessels. The skin will then start to lose moisture and hydration, which will be apparent with a feeling of tightness. Slowly, skin cells will start to thicken and melanin pigment will be produced (tanning) in an attempt to stop the UV rays from penetrating through to the deeper layers and damaging the DNA of the cells. When the skin is exposed to high levels of sunlight this may result in hypo or hyperpigmentation which appears as irregular light or dark patches. The body is excellent at coping with minimal amounts of damage, but if exposure is greater than the body’s ability to repair and mop up, more serious consequences may result. If DNA is damaged and its repair mechanisms are inhibited, skin cancer may occur.

    Why Does the Skin Peel?

    Peeling after a sunburn is your body’s way of getting rid of the damaged cells that are at risk of “losing control” and becoming cancerous. Due to this danger, all damaged cells are instructed to self destruct by repair mechanisms within these cells. This mass destruction of cells results in whole layers of damaged skin peeling off, to be replaced by other cells underneath those layers.

    I Have a Sunburn, What Should I Do Now?

    First of all, you should take care of the cause of your problem: get out of the sun immediately. Drink plenty of water as you may be dehydrated. If skin is severely blistered, seek help from a medical practitioner. Otherwise it is important to take down the inflammation and try to reduce damage to the deeper layers of your skin.

    Take a cool bath (no products added) and then blot skin dry. Avoid greasy creams, which prevent the skin from cooling and may make the situation worse. Rather, apply generously a soothing after-sun gel to red areas and then stay out of the sun and the heat. Look for ingredients such as Clove, Licorice, Lavender, Cucumber and Yucca to reduce irritation, pain and redness. Also look out for an incredible ingredient called Japanese Alder to accelerate the repair of UV induced DNA damage. Couple this with ingredients such as Algae and Hyaluronic Acid to rehydrate the skin and you should be well on your way to a calmer skin.

    And no, it is not then ok to go out into the sun the next day for another blast! Remember, your skin is still trying to heal and so must be kept out of direct sunlight for a good few days. Keep in mind, the skin is a great record keeper and even with a great after-sun product, irreparable damage may have occurred in the form of premature aging or skin cancer that may only reveal itself later. Think twice next time you decide “just another ten minutes;” your immune system is listening!