News

  • Eyedeas for Eyes!

    Bettina ZammertNo other part of the face is as expressive or reveals our moods and feelings as much as the eye area. The area is an eye-catcher in the truest sense of the word – but unfortunately it’s also the part of the face that shows the first signs of skin aging. The first fine lines start to appear when we are in our early to mid-20s, and it’s followed by changes in pigmentation and a reduction in the skin’s firmness. And regardless of our age, a glance in the mirror can often reveal puffiness and shadows around the eyes – which is guaranteed to spoil the mood!

    Our clients also have their concerns regarding the youthfulness and radiance of their eye area. Needless to say, an individual consultation also includes the recommendation of suitable eye care products. Which is most suitable is determined by the condition of the skin and your clients’ preferences. You must also find out whether your clients are already using an eye care product, and whether it contains a protection against ultraviolet (UV) rays.

    You must also ask clients about their lifestyles and daily habits. Do they wear sunglasses with adequately large frames to protect the tissue around the eyes from harmful UV rays? Are the frames efficient enough to prevent squinting, which can lead to expression lines?

    You can achieve amazing results around the eye area if you use a chemical exfoliant during the skin treatment. But be careful – do not use mechanical exfoliants with granules, as they could enter your clients’ eyes and cause a severe mechanical irritation on the sensitive area. It is better to use a gentle acid exfoliant, applied in a semi-circle around the outer corner of the eye. Take great care not to get too close to the lash line, and only work on the areas under the eye and by the outer corner of the eye – the inner corner of the eye is a no-go area! Finish this with a gentle drainage massage using a concentrate of active substances followed by a cooling gel mask for a real WOW effect when your client looks in the mirror.

    Incidentally: A chemical exfoliation, light massage and mask can also leave the lip area looking much fresher and fuller. Please take care to avoid the oral fissure – and make sure your client doesn’t inadvertently “sample” the products.

    Wishing you every success, and with best wishes from Germany!

  • Give Sunscreen a Boost with Plant Oleosomes!

    The plant kingdom once again provides cosmetic chemists with a new technology that plays an important role in sunscreen formulations. Known as oleosomes, these oil capsules are found naturally in various plants and seeds, providing a reservoir for plant oils that provide an energy source for the plant. Cosmetic scientists have learned that these spherical structures can be loaded with active substances such as sunscreens, providing both a means of delivery, as well as, a stabilized environment for actives that may break down under normal conditions. Oleosomes represent the next generation in encapsulation.

    They also act as natural emulsifying agents, allowing us to reduce the amount of emulsifier used in a formula. Why is this important? Because we now know that emulsifying agents can interfere with chemical sunscreen activity, especially when higher SPFs are used. When oleosomes loaded with active sunscreens are added to a formula, less of the regular emulsifying agents are required. The end result is that we get a boost to SPF activity with a lower concentration of sunscreen actives and emulsifiers. This is a real bonus, especially for individuals that may find higher concentrations of chemical sunscreens potentially irritating. When applied to the skin, oleosomes collapse in a timed-release fashion, delivering the sunscreen protection over a period of time. Not since the development of UV Smart Booster technology, which delivered antioxidant capsules to provide enhanced sunscreen protection, has there been such exciting new technology that promises to change the development of sunscreen products.